Yamaha Vino 2016 Cc Owners Manual
Yamaha Motorcycle Service Repair Workshop Manuals Need a Yamaha motorcycle service repair workshop manual? Here you can find all manuals online for your specific Yamaha motorcycle. Browse by year below: Also see: Yamaha ATV Manuals, Yamaha PWC Manuals, Yamaha Boat Manuals. Haynes Yamaha repair manuals cover your specific vehicle with easy to follow pictures. Transmission) Scooters Haynes Online Manual covering 50-250 cc. 2016 Yamaha Vino Owners Manual 49 Cc If you are searching for the ebook 2016 Yamaha Vino Owners Manual 49 Cc in pdf format, in that case you come onto the right website.
One of the best things you can do for the longevity of your scooter’s engine is change the engine oil. We (and most manufacturers) recommend changing the engine oil when you first get your scooter prior to even starting it (a good scooter dealer should do this for you as part of the prep work prior to delivery). You will then want to change the oil again after a short break-in period (300KM).
Yamaha Vino 2016 Cc Owners Manual Pdf
From that point forward, you should change your oil at every 1,000KM on your odometer or more frequently if you are riding in more severe conditions. With the importance of oil changes in your scooter, we often get the question from scooter owners as to what type of engine oil they should use in their 4-stroke GY6 scooter motor. While the topic of oil gets hotly debated (as to which brands, synthetic or non-synthetic, what weight, etc.) is best for your engine, we will try to shed some light on the subject as it pertains to the 50cc and 150cc GY6 4-stroke scooter engines. Please note, this discussion only applies to the 50cc and 150cc GY6 4-stroke scooters (denoted by a 139QMB or 157QMJ engine number) found on many of the modern Chinese and Taiwanese scooters. It does not apply to other scooter engines (2-strokes, older model scooters, etc) – for those we recommend consulting your owner’s manual. Oil Viscosity: Viscosity is the “flow rate” of a liquid; the greater the number, the greater resistance of the liquid to “flow.” As an example, water has a much lower viscosity than honey (neither of which we recommend for protecting your engine).
Multi-weight engine oil is denoted by two numbers (example 10w-40). The first number is the viscosity of the oil at cold temperature; the second number is the viscosity of the oil at engine operating temperature. Thus, 10w-30 has a lower viscosity at engine operating temperature than a 10w-40 weight oil as denoted by the 30 vs 40. The trick to finding the correct engine oil for your engine is getting one that has the correct viscosity at cold temperature so that it can flow thru your oil pump and passageways to your valves, camshafts, etc. At cold start-up; while also maintaining a high enough viscosity at engine operating temperature to properly lubricate all the metal to metal components in your engine.
If you go too low for your engines recommended viscosity, you lose valuable lubrication. If you go too high for your engines recommended viscosity, the oil does not flow correctly thru the pumps and passageways to get to where it needs to be to lubricate. As such, most engine manufactures denote a specific oil weight or viscosity for their engine design. With the 50cc and 150cc GY6 engines, most manufactures recommend a 10w-40 for colder winter weather, and 15w-40 for hotter summer riding. This makes sense, (recall the first number denotes viscosity at cold temperature), so a lower viscosity (10w-40) in the cold months of winter help the oil flow more easily to vital components at cold start-up, while moving to a higher 15w-40 helps lubricate a bit more at cold start-up in the hotter summer months. Synthetic vs. Conventional Engine Oil: You will find that the subject of using synthetic vs conventional oil in your scooter is hotly debated on both sides.
As a general rule, we recommend using conventional motor oil during your first 1,000KM break-in period. Synthetic engine oils just don’t tend to break-in the engine as well as conventional oils due to the differences in formulation and additives. After the first 1,000KM break-in you can switch to synthetic oil in the correct viscosity range for your engine (10w-40 or 15w-40). Reportedly, synthetic oils tend to lubricate better at higher temperatures, and break down less quickly in the high-heat air cooled scooter engines.
However, a word of caution on synthetic oil as with many small engines, we have heard reports of some engines leaking synthetic oil out of the engine crank seals. While it happens in a small number of cases, we certainly recommend that if you do decide to switch to a synthetic oil, check your engine for leaks and check the oil level on your dipstick very frequently for the first few oil changes. By doing this, you can insure that if you are one of the small number of scooters that leaks with synthetic oil, you can catch things before it causes damage to your engine. With the price difference between synthetic and conventional oil, we find that many scooter owners tend to stick with conventional oil.
Many owners opt to change oil more frequently with lower cost conventional oil (say every 800KM) vs. Using higher cost synthetic engine oil and changing oil every 1,000KM. We don’t have a strong option in favor of either approach, but very strongly believe that routine oil changes at or below manufacturer’s recommended intervals with the correct viscosity oil is really the key to a long lasting engine. Use of synthetic vs.
Conventional is really up to personal preference. Either type of oil with regular changes will give your engine a good and happy life.
Motorcycle Specific Oils: Most modern motorcycles have a “wet” clutch, meaning that the friction plates in the clutch are also lubricated by the engine oil. Motorcycle specific oils are made to provide the right amount of lubrication to the engine while at the same time having additives that allow for the clutch to operate properly. On motorcycles with wet clutches, use of regular automotive engine oil can cause the clutch to slip. The 4-stroke GY6 engine used in most modern scooters does not have a wet clutch like a modern motorcycle (rather they use a belt driven CVT transmission which is “dry” and not in contact with engine oil). As such, there is no need to use motorcycle specific oil for your GY6 scooter.
To start a scooter needs three things:. Gas.
A spark. Cylinder compression If your scooter won't start it due to one of the above not being present. Before you start troubleshooting, make sure there is gas in the tank by actually looking into it.
Yamaha Vino 2016 Cc Owners Manual
Don't just trust the gas gauge! Most scooters have four things that need to be done before they can be started with the electric starter:. The ignition has to be turned on. The kill switch (usually near the right grip) has to be in the 'on' position. The rear (left) brake lever has to be squeezed.
The starter button must be pressed. Some scooters may have other interlocks on the front brake or the center stand. Check your owner's manual to make sure that you are doing all you need to to complete the electrical circuit which enables it to start. If the scooter doesn't turn over when you've done all the required operations, there's an electrical problem with the battery. Make sure the battery is charged.
If it is, make sure the fuse hasn't blown. If it hasn't, check to see if you are getting voltage to the starter motor terminals.
If you are, the starter motor is likely defective. Many scooters have a kick start (see your manual). If the battery is OK and the starter motor doesn't work, try kickstarting it.
It's usually not too hard. My scooter usually starts OK on the 2nd or 3rd kick. If the scooter does turn over but still doesn't start you have to check for a spark and make sure gas is getting to the engine.
To check for a spark, remove the spark plug from the cylinder, hold the tip of the plug against the cylinder head and crank the engine. You should see a spark across the gap. If you don't, there's a problem with the ignition. Could be a faulty coil or electronic ignition module which will have to be replaced, or it could just be a lose wire. If you do have a spark, you need to check the gas.
Make sure there is gas in the tank first! If there is you need to check the fuel valve. Most scooters use a gravity fuel feed by locating the fuel tank higher than the carburetor.
The fuel usually then flows through filter and then through a vacuum operated valve. The valve has three hoses connected to it.
One if from the fuel tank and is for the gas going in, one is connected to the carburetor and is for the gas coming out and one goes to the engine manifold which provides a vacuum. If you disconnect the hose from the carburetor, fuel should run out when you crank the engine (be careful to catch the gas if you do this and don't do it with a hot engine). If you don't see gas the fuel valve may be faulty. You can try applying a vacuum to the control port of the valve and see if the fuel flows.
Sucking on the line is one way to do this (but make sure it's the vacuum line, not the gas line if you try this!). If you are getting a spark and you are getting gas to the carburetor and the engine is turning over on the starter OK, it's possible that the electrically operated automatic choke has failed.
It's supposed to operate when the engine is cold, but if it's stuck or burned out, the mixture will be weak and the scooter probably won't start. The automatic choke is usually a black cylindrical object attached to the carburetor with a couple of wires coming out of it as shown on the left.
It's the only electrical powered component attached to the carburetor, so it's usually not hard to spot. If you have a voltmeter you can measure the resistance across the leads of the choke. It should be somewhere in the region of around 10 or 20 ohms. If it's an open circuit, it's burned out and will need to be replaced.
If it seems to be OK it may be stuck, or the wiring to it may have a problem. Check to see that it's getting voltage. It's also possible that there is a problem with the carburetor and if so you may need to remove it and clean it out. If the scooter has been sitting for a few months with gas in the carburetor, the gas may have evaporated and left a sticky 'gum' behind that will prevent the carburetor from working properly and which must be removed. If the automatic choke is OK, the starter cranks the engine, there's gas and there's a spark then there may be an engine problem. You need to check the cylinder compression.
You need a compression tester to do this. It screws in instead of the spark plug and measures cylinder pressure. When you crank the engine you should see a reading of around 150 psi or more. If it's 100 psi or less there's likely and engine problem (bad valve, bad piston, failed piston rings) which will need the engine taken apart to find.
Probably the most common problems are a dead battery or carburetor problems due to bad adjustment or build up of gummy deposits. Carburetor problems usually come on slowly though. If a scooter is OK one day and refuses to start the next day, I'd first suspect an electrical problem. If your scooter will start, even for a few seconds, but will not run properly see part II of this article - Additional Resources.