Harig 618 Manual
- This is a reproduction, not a photocopy, of an original Harig 612 & 618 Automatic Surface Grinder Instructions and Parts Manual. This manual contains information on lubrication, maintenance, adjustments, operations, and controls.
- View and Download Harig AUTOMATIC PLC manual online. AUTOMATIC PLC Grinder pdf manual. LONGITUDINAL POWER FEED 16815665 618 GRINDER.
Gentlemen, i have come up on a surface grinder for sale. It would appear that this unit would be a nice addition to my home shop. 6. 12.thats all, I am lookin for something a littel bigger but for 600 bones I had to take a second look @ this deal. I don't really know what kinda use it will play in my shop.I am aimin @ doing alot of broaching ( if need be ), so i finger that a surface grinder would be needed to sharpen broaches. But 12.6 kinda limits my broach size huh?
But there is the $600 factor, seems like a hell of a deal.right? It ofcourse is old, but I have a bridgeport round ram & its a champion, am.still a little leary on this unit. I have some surface grinder experince ( say 1-2000 hours ) but not enough to go thru this baby with a fine tooth comb. This is what i have thought of ( still haven't inspected just seen pic ) 1.
Products 1 - 85 - follow operation instructions carefully. Standard Safety Precautions for. Operating the Harig 612. 618 Autostep. I NEVER operate machine.
Screw backlash 2. Spindle bearings.it is not running ( only single hase @ seller location ) a stethescope & rollin the spindle should give me a good idea 3. Table travel smoothness? Someone please give me some ideas ( roughness, vidration, resistance ) 4.
Ispect that with dials?????????? Its a manual affair, so it means the left forearm will finally be as big as the right hahahahahaah any info would be great. Not sure how the 612 differs from the Super 612? I have only known the Super 612 model.
AFAIK the table should be on teflon slides - not rollers bearings. Likely has a Pope spindle, and no rack/pinion on these - they use a cable wrapped around the crank shaft = no backlash possible.
If the cable is loose - the shaft will spn inside the cable. Nothing fancy - just plain simpleness rat there! There should be an oil pump to make pressure to the sight glass up top of the column to feed oil to the slides. Mine was bad and I replaced with a baby Little Giant. If the spindle goes roundy round - I don't think you can git hurt too bad at that price at all. But maybe the basic 612 is different. I would be interested to know.
Think Snow Eh! I ran an older Harig 618 for a while moonlighting in a buddies tool shop, don't think that one was teflon. For some reason, Harig has a big fan base and they are highly rated. I think they are a nice easy grinder to run but they are a little light. I would not get a primary surface grinder without auto feeds on at least x/z (table & saddle)unless you are going to use it only for manual tool making and sharpening. It sounds like you are saying this grinder does not actually fit your mental picture of what your first choice would be, but you are getting sucked in because the price is not too bad.
Unless it is for hobby use, sounds to me like it would be better to fully define your needs & expectations, then focus on getting a grinder that fully meets those requirements and pony up for it. Don't know where you are, but in the NE, 600 - 1,000 will still buy a heck of a grinder at auctions. Harig always goes somewhat high, again, if puzzles me. But an equivalent size manual only grinder Reid, B & S,etc often does not make it past 3-400. I probably have more than 30,000 hours logged on Harig grinders over the last 20 some years. They can be cable or rack drive, depends, the cable is more common and beats a rack drive hands down. They can also have teflon ways, hard chromed ways or toolsteel ways.
In my opinion the Teflon is the least desireable and the hard chrome being the most desireable. The reason they are so prized is that they hold tolerance very well and for picky details or form work are very hard to beat. Brown & Sharpe only wished they made something comparable for fine detail and form grinding. For form grinding of small mold parts and punches they are way better than 90% of the grinders made, now if you're gonna just grind stuff flat get a powered grinder instead of a manual one. How can you tell the tool steel ways from the chrome? I have two machines with the 'Harig' spindle motors made by Doerr Electric, and one machine with the Pope spindle. After reading what Ox had to say.Im curious if Harig switched motor mfg'rs at some point?HP of the spindles?
6x12 and 8x18s set up for carbide plunge grinding came with 3 HP Doerr motors on a standard spindle and the next step up, 3 HP Pope spindles. While these were the standard machine for most carbide shops through the 70s and 80s and even up to today, the standard motor would last less than half a year plunge grinding carbide. Harigs are a great manual grinder for the money, like mcruff, I spent nigh on 30 years in front of various grinders,Harigs mostly. Doing fussy form work, Harigs are very capable. Mitsui or Okamoto are better in my opinion simply because they are much heavier and less prone to vibration migration from the spindle if you have an unbalanced wheel. As to the OP, 600 bucks is not a bad price but I would need more info, does it have a dro?
What kind of chuck,manual or electric? Does it have a light and are the table stops intact and are they flip up or solid? For broach sharpening, a 618 vs a 612 is no different as the cross slide travel is the same on both models. And lastly will you be doing any large parts, say 15-20 lbs?
I find that harigs are sensitive to heavy set ups, the more weight the harder it is to keep things flat square and parallel. Nothing wrong with a good harig. Old does not mean much as some old timers are as good as some new machines.
$600 should get you a good surface grinder IMHO. Replacing spindle bearings, scraping in, putting new ball rack can cost a bundle so get a good machine up front if you can. I like oil ways on an older machine better than ball ways.
Harig 618 Autostep Manual
Run the spindle for sound and grind finish is almost a must IMHO.A long setting spindle should be hand spun a number of times and jog start a number of times before full RPM. A wad of stiff grease or a dead cat can waste a spindle in five seconds. ( a dead cat is a small bit of dust that can even get into a sealed bearing as if it just grew there out of nothing) Grinding flat broaches. Good to have a dresser to angle grind wheel bottom to clearance angle (perhaps 2.
to 5. or how they came in).
Tilt bar on side of an angle plate and a bar diamond holder is good. Broach will go straight way(cross direction) for back-off so with not enough travel you may have to turn insert other way and dress back off angle on wheel the other way also. Only straight tooth broach can be ground flat on chuck. With a tooth angle a kicker shim will go under one side of flat broach alnong with the rise to the long way.
Harig 618 Manual
Last tooth or few teeth can be flat ground (flat on chuck with flat bottom wheel) this or these teeth will tell you how much kicker to use. Broach inserts can be set on an angle fixture to get rise. Or the grinder hand can step grind each tooth the step dimension lower. A sine magnetic table cam become an adjustable kicker. Good to skim grind tooth face so setting up on face rake angle might be needed.
Here a kicker may also be needed kicker means the angles in compound done come out exact and so the set up may need a slight tweaking. For clearance back off think of how the insert will set in the cross feed direction under the wheel. With the insert tilted for back-off angle(not good). Or the way I do it with the wheel bottom dressed to clearance angle notice when you get to extreme end where it is to the column. That is not a problem but you need to consider it to think of you will make your set-up.
2007 thread Wow Last edited by michiganbuck; at 03:01 PM. I have a 612 and would not like to be without it.
Power table would be nice but as I don't use it too often or for too long when I do, hand table and feed is OK. Mine does have backlash in the cross feed, but that is not a problem to deal with. Spindle bearings are not cheap and spindle should be dynamically balanced by a shop with such capabilities, but one may be able get away without the balancing act.
Can't remember the quote but seem to recall $750.00 for one bearing and the set was three pieces. Two at the wheel end and one at the motor end.
Harig 618 Automatic Manual
Don't think it will hog, but it isn't the job for a hand operated SG anyway. It is a great SG for a one man shop and can be a life saver in certain cases.