Hello- I currently have 2 mccormick 46 balers with the newer style twine knives with replaceable razor blade. Let me first start out by saying these make a huge difference in missed bales from the old hand sharpen twine knives. Bales much much better. Also, just picked up a mccormick 45 baler this fall that I want to put the newer style twine knives on. My question is, does anyone know anything about the spacer that IH sells to put between twine knife and the knotter instead of using washers? I see it is listed on the parts view on Messicks.com for the 46 baler.

• International Baler Parts
• International 27 Baler Manual

IH part number 200425C1. I am thinking that this spacer may correctly position the twine knife, rather than guessing and getting close with washers?

INTERNATIONAL 27 BALER OVERHAUL SHOP SERVICE REPAIR MANUAL FIELD ADJUSTMENTS See more like this. International McCormick Model 27 Twine Baler Operators Manual See more like this. A New Operators Manual For An International 27 Square Baler See more like this.

Hello-I currently have 2 mccormick 46 balers with the newer style twine. This newer twine knife should fit the International 45,46,27,37. A copy of the baler knotter service manual may prove to be a good investment too. McCormick Deering Pickup Baler No. 50-T Owner's Manual and Parts List. Cover is dirty, page 71/72 has been cut out and attached inside the cover, some smudges on some pages, dated 9-12-47 on the.

International Baler Parts

Anyone have any experience with these spacers? Newer style twine knife assembly is 668961R21. This newer twine knife should fit the International 45,46,27,37,47,420,430,440. I know for a fact it works on the Mccormick 46.

I have posted a picture of the newer style twine knives, I couldn't find a picture of the spacer. Thanks in advance and let me know if anyone has used this spacer. Back when we used these balers,twine that was consistent in thickness made a big difference,some twines with 'Thin Spots' would play havoc with the twine tension adjustment,causing the twine sometimes to wrap around the bill hook.A copy of the baler knotter service manual may prove to be a good investment too.The newer replaceable knife twine knives were a big improvemnt too,as other have said.The manual will give specifiactions of the knife settings also.Ebay or Binder Books may be a good source.Some guys cuss these balers,I'd like to have a dollar for every bale we put through them. Tom- If I understand you correctly, the twine is pulling out of the knotter before a knot is made?

The only thing that can pull off the billhook is the knot AFTER the knot is made. When a bale is being made, the twine is held onto the knotter by the twine cord holder. The cord holder part number is 668963R1. This cord holder can become worn and not hold twine to knotter when a bale is being made. Also, what twine are you using. Should use 9000 sisal twine, not plastic.

7200 sisal will work also. Another thing to check is that you have a good quality fresh twine. Twine that is old or bad quality will break easily, may seem as though knotter will not hold twine, when it is really breaking off when the plunger makes a compression stroke. Also, check to see if you have a worn or missing twine retainer spring, part#667408r1. This spring puts tension on twine when it is in the cord holder to better hold it to the knotter. Go to www.messicks.com, click on case/IH parts, type in 46 for model number, scroll down to mccormick 46 pickup baler, and look at exploded parts views. The cord holder is number 6, and the retainer spring is item 48.

This should get you started, hope this helps! Good Luck Jesse. I'd be happy to pass along what I know as I have spent a lot of time with the manual getting to understand how the system works and where the problems are.

The baler will do a pretty good job when everything is right. However what we are talking about conerning change of cutting knives was new to me. Something I've seen to be a real common problem is the springs being lost that work the hay retainers.

There is two on top and two on the bottom. On mine they have fallen out seveal times. When that happens the hay after the plunger pulls out backs up enough the bill hooks don't grab the string and it forms an overhand knot on one end and an untied bale. Tension on the bill hooks is important too. If you can easily pull off a tied knot by hand they are too loose. They can be too tight as well and it can cause the string to brake when hay pushes the bale forward. There are some adjustments and clearances that are important but I'd have to have the manual in front of me to explain them.

Manuals are critical to making these balers work but when they work they will bale more hay than one guy on the wagon can keep up with. Charlie- Over the years, I have got to know my mccormick 46 knotters very well. No matter how much I sharpened the original twine knives, you can not get as good an edge as with the newer style razor blade type. When checking sharpness by pulling a piece of twine over knife, see how easily you can cut twine on an original twine knife, then on the newer style. The newer style is much better. Most of the time, I will go 1000 bales before a miss tie.

Used to be 1 or 2 in 100 or more. If there are any strands that are not cut completely, it tends to pull the knot apart, that is why the twine knife is so critical. The newer style twine knives are about $28 a piece, and the replacement razor blades are about $3.00 each at the dealer. I bale about 6000 bales a year and replace the razor blades at the start of each season. I probably could go longer but for $6.00, it is worth it to put new on each year. The razor blade is held on by 1 screw.

When I put the newer twine knives on, I had to reajust with more washers because they are slightly longer than the original knives. Takes a little time to adjust, but once done they work great.

I can look on my baler to give you a starting point for # of washers to use if you like. I still would like to find out about that spacer. I bet that takes the place of the washers. Hope this helps. Thanks for the reply.

Hello, The horse farm iv'been working on this summer bales about 2 - 3000 bales per season, and they use an 38 year old model 27 baler. It's always slept indoors or covered with a tarp if on the feild, so it's in prety good condition. Well, last year, tpwards the end of the baleing process (20-ish bales to go) the tooth pulling cable thing broke, carriage went in the chamber, plunger mashed it pretty good. So the story goes. Seems Case sells new carriages for it, but they sell them 700$, so we un-bent it (along with a whole lot of other parts). The cable they sold 250$, the hardware store sold one to my boss 36 feet for 19$. Just goes to show.

Sharpened the knives, greased it all round, re-ajusted pretty much everything except the chamber. (it looked like something that's pretty long to do) Also made a new wood block to correct a pulley that was rubbing somewhere it wasn't supposed to. This thing has wood blocks in it, would you beleive? Anyways, it took 5 days to fix, and now it works. However, sometimes it makes rather flacid bales, and others tight. It'l break the twine about once per 50 bales and miss a knot once per 20 bales or so.

So im' asking to anyone who has experience with this machine: Does this sound like a properly operating model 27 baler? Boss was swearing at it the other day. The springs have been re-ajusted to specs, but beeing almost 40 years old, i figure they're probably not as tight as they should be, right? Also, is it normal that it dosen't like thin plastic twine?

It seemed to choke more often on it then on the slightly thicker other brand. I have a IH #27 baler that I use as a back-up. It was old and rusty when I got it 10 years ago. The last time the previous owner used it they broke a needle. A repaire man from the local IH dealer came to the farm and replaced the needle and retimed it.

International 27 Baler Manual

He spent most of the day working on it. The owner made 2 or 3 bales to make sure it worked and put it away with the bales in it. I bought it few years later. I cleaned it up and tried it out. It has only missed 3 knots out of 3000 to 4000 bales. It will make a banna bale once in a while. Other than that it works fine.

I normally use a JD 24T and I think it makes better bales. We have a 27 that was bought new in the 60's by my great-grandpa and used on our farm for years, until this year.

It has done a lot of hay, but was nothing but trouble as far back as I can remember. It doesn't have a good reputation, especially the older they get. We found a IHC 430T for $275 at an auction. I didn't know how bad the 27 was until we used the 430. The 27 missed a lot some days, others ok, but it is very slow and made bad bales. We bale about the same # of bales you do.

It was nice this year not to have to worry about the baler making hay.