1. Transmission For Chevy 350 Engine

Automatic transmissions are often avoided like the plague, even by highly skilled mechanics and automotive technicians. It seems that these days, because of the complexity of modern electronically controlled 4-, 5-, and 6-speed units, overhaul and repair has been limited to the dealership level.

While swapping in any of the automatic overdrive transmissions probably won’t cause an exhaust clearance problem, swapping a big T56 into a slammed Camaro may give you nothing but the “scrapes.” It may be necessary to have custom headers fabricated and to install a ministarter to clear the bellhousing. This is one of those stories that you’ll want to add to your ever-expanding files of Bow Tie knowledge. This trans swapping guide is for early Chevrolet iron and concentrates particularly on first- and second-generation Camaros. It may be the most complete resource guide the crack Chevy High Performance editorial staff has ever created.

We have gone to great lengths to supply you with as much swapping information as could be dug up. This guide can tell you what’s involved with—and needed for—swapping any trans into your Bow Tie. Easy Swaps By far the most popular conversion is swapping out an original two-speed Powerglide (PG) for a three-speed TH350.

The TH350 is a bolt-in replacement for a PG, making this swap a relatively straightforward one that requires no crossmember or driveshaft modifications. The TH350’s steeper First-gear ratio will give you improved acceleration over the two-speed ’Glide. The stock console shifter that controlled the PG will work with the TH350 as well, but you may want to replace the stock indicator bezel with one from a TH350- or TH400-equipped car to keep track of what gear you’re in. The next easy swap involves replacing either a PG or TH350 with the bigger, stronger, and heavier TH400. This swap is pretty straightforward in any early Chevy, considering that TH400s were optional in most of them. When changing from a PG/TH350 to a TH400, the stock trans crossmember will need to be moved back several inches to align with the TH400 trans mount. If your vehicle ever came equipped stock with a TH400 trans, then you could pick up a crossmember from the scrap yard or a source like Classic Industries, which would allow the TH400 to bolt right into your stock frame.

The original TH350 and PG driveshaft won’t need to be shortened because it’s already the correct length, but you must replace its slip-yoke with a 32-spline unit from GM (PN 14075214). The TH400’s torque converter features a different diameter bolt circle than the TH350/PG converters, but most GM flexplates are already drilled with the necessary dual pattern. If your flexplate has only one bolt circle, you’ll need a dual-pattern replacement, readily available for all Chevy V-8s from sources such as ATI, TCI, and Pioneer. The fittings for the trans cooler lines are in the same location on all three of these automatics, so the plumbing won’t need to be modified.

And the same shifter can be used to control either a TH350 or TH400. Overdrive Automatic Swaps Starting in the early ’80s, GM began installing four-speed automatic overdrive transmissions to improve gas mileage. Another benefit of these overdrive transmissions was that they featured a much deeper First-gear ratio, giving improved acceleration off the line.

Today, the three-speed automatic transmission is extinct and all new GM cars and trucks come with overdrive four-speed automatics, making them easy to find and relatively affordable. 4l60/TH700-R4 Swap By far the most common overdrive swap has been replacing a three-speed automatic trans with the popular 4L60/TH700-R4 unit. Just so there’s no confusion about which transmission we’re referring to, the 4L60 was the first upgrade made to the venerable TH700-R4. The 4L60 preceded the electronically controlled 4L60-E, which currently comes stock in most of GM’s V-8–powered cars and ½-ton pickups. The nonelectronic 4L60 and TH700-R4 are essentially the same transmissions as far as swapping is concerned, so we’re going to lump them both into the same category.

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This swap requires minimal fabrication skills and very little in the way of custom modifications. The TH700 is equipped with a removable tailshaft housing that has varied in length for different vehicles over different years. The tailshaft housing to look for if you’re replacing an original TH400 trans came stock on mid-’80s police cars (Caprice) and the early Impala SS. This tailshaft housing puts the mounting pad almost in line with the original TH400 pad and usually requires only slight elongation of the mounting holes to fit. If you’re replacing a TH350 trans, you can relocate the factory crossmember mounting holes rearward approximately 1½ inches or swap in an original TH400 crossmember. For either swap, the driveshaft will have to be shortened by as much as 3¾ inches. We recommend mocking up your installation with the TH700-R4 trans in place and then taking measurements to determine how long your new driveshaft will need to be before having it cut.

A TH350/PG slip-yoke will work with the TH700-R4 trans, but a TH400’s will not. The TH700 uses a unique torque converter that will bolt right up to a TH350’s flexplate. TH200-4R Swap The TH200-4R has been available almost as long as the TH700-R4 but is unanimously overlooked as a performance transmission option. Truth is, the TH200-4R is just as capable and actually easier to swap in than a TH700-R4. It is ideal if you’re replacing a TH350 or Powerglide trans because a TH200-4R will practically install itself into a TH350/Powerglide–equipped car.

You may run into transmission oil-pan interference problems when bolting the TH200-4R into early Camaros with the stock TH400 crossmember. The easiest cure is to fabricate a steel or aluminum spacer to raise the back of the trans and slip the spacer in between the mount and the transmission to give it the necessary clearance (see photo). Also, the TH200 uses a torque converter with the smaller TH350 bolt circle. You may have to switch to a dual-pattern flexplate if your car came equipped with the TH400 trans. Lockup Control GM had a good idea when it installed lockup torque converters in the overdrive automatics. The purpose of the lockup is to couple the engine directly to the transmission’s output shaft in Fourth gear for the best fuel economy.

One design dilemma that comes with the lockup converter is that the transmission only sees full oil pressure when the converter is locked. This can lead to transmissions running hot and living a short life behind a powerful engine. But most aftermarket performance transmissions are valved to alleviate such problems, and running a supplemental trans oil cooler is always a good idea. ACT manufacturers a special High Pressure Valve (PN 17008) that allows the trans to see maximum oil pressure with a non-lockup-style converter, and they don’t recommend combining it with a lockup converter. TCI offers a wiring upgrade kit, which allows installation of a TH700 or TH200 with a lockup converter into any non-computer-controlled car. This wiring kit uses two sensors to control converter lockup at the proper time.

The first sensor only engages the lockup clutch in Fourth gear, as a computer-controlled vehicle would. The other switch gets connected to a ported vacuum source and measures engine vacuum. This switch unlocks the converter if the engine is making less than 8 inches of manifold vacuum. So when the throttle is either wide open or completely closed, the converter clutch is unlocked, allowing converter slippage. This also acts as a safety to ensure that the converter will unlock before the vehicle comes to a stop.

Automatic Shifting Control All of GM’s overdrive automatics use a cable connected to the throttle that tells the transmission when to shift. If this cable, called a Throttle Valve Cable (or TV cable for short), is connected incorrectly or misadjusted, the trans will shift too soon, too soft, too late, or not at all. Chevy High Performance outlined proper adjustment techniques for the TV cable back in the Mar. ’99 issue in a story titled “Hard Hittin’ Shiftin’” on page 66.

If you’ve installed your overdrive and the trans won’t shift right, read that story and check out your adjustment. Holley, TCI, ACT, and GM all offer cable attachment brackets to facilitate TV cable connections to any carb. Also, there is no vacuum modulator used on the TH700/TH200, so you can plug the old line that ran from the base of the carb or intake manifold to the transmission.

4L60-E And Its Big Brother The 4L80-E It’s ironic that even though both of these strong overdrive transmissions come stock in all of GM’s automatic-equipped new cars and trucks, not many of them are finding their way into early performance musclecars. Perhaps that’s due to their weight and high initial cost. Or maybe it’s because they’re hard to find used in the scrap yards and many people don’t want to add a computer just to control the transmission. To make that task easier, JET Performance Products now offers a stand-alone computer-controlled system that will operate a 4L80-E transmission behind any carbureted or fuel-injected engine. The 4L80-E Transconversion kit features its own computer with software that is custom-tuned to your vehicle’s specifications, providing the proper shift points, shift quality, and lockup torque converter function. Its wiring harness has a built-in diagnostic port that will allow the connection of the modern scanning electronics present in any Chevrolet dealership’s garage to track down and diagnose any transmission-related problems. The JET system will not interfere with any existing computer systems you may have already installed in your vehicle.

Manual Gearbox Swapping This is where things get complicated—not because swapping an older four-speed or even a newer factory five-speed is all that difficult, but instead because there are so many different variations of manual transmissions floating around today that just knowing what you’ve got is a big step in the right direction. Chevy High Performance has covered the transplant of GM’s T56 six-speed manual transmission into early Chevys in several stories (see “Get Six,” Sept. ’98, and “Get Six, Pt. ’99; “Thrasher,” Oct. ’98; and “Trans Swapping Tech,” May ’99) so we highly recommend referring back to those issues for details concerning a T56 swap. Several companies are now offering parts to help make swapping in a T56 a whole lot easier. One part is a completely new aftermarket T56 transmission assembly from National Drivetrain.

All T56 transmissions installed in late-model cars use an electronic pickup to measure speed, but National’s T56 is designed to use the standard speedo cable and T5 manual transmission’s drive and driven gears. This T56 is a direct replacement for the weakling T5 trans that came stock in third-gen Camaros. Its case length and mounting pad are identical, and it features the same input/output spline count as the T5. It does require that the clutch be converted to a hydraulic pull-off design using a hydraulic master cylinder and remote fluid reservoir. Centerforce has come to the rescue and offers a clutch, flywheel, and pressure plate made to adapt this trans to early, two-piece rear-main-seal small-blocks. Swapping any six-speed trans into your early Chevy iron is expensive and difficult, but it will give you the ultimate in shift control and cruising speed.

There is much custom fabrication work involved in a six-speed swap as well as some additional high-performance hardware that you’ll need, including purchasing or fabricating a custom mounting bracket and modifying the stock clutch pedal for the hydraulic-clutch master cylinder, modifying or fabricating a complete transmission crossmember, relocating the shifter hole in the floor of the car, shortening the driveshaft and possibly changing its yoke, and even installing a small-diameter starter and having custom headers built for clearance. This may sound like a lot to swallow in one gulp, but one astute reader sent us a very detailed list outlining the modifications needed and the costs involved with making his T56 swap a reality. Roughly $3,000 later and after some very inventive engineering, he was rowing a T56 six-speed in his ’69 Camaro (see “Get Six, Pt.

We won’t say a T56 swap is a bad idea, but it’s not for the timid or frugal. There are other aftermarket manual trans options available for the early Chevy crowd that won’t cost more than the down payment on a new car and are much easier to complete. One such swap involves installing a Richmond four-, five-, or even six-speed manual transmission. The Richmond gearboxes are unique in that they can be ordered with a variety of gear ratios to fit different driving styles. Only the Richmond four-speed trans is a direct-fit replacement for the ’71-and-later Muncie and Super T-10 transmissions using the same 26-spline input and 32-spline output shafts. Its overall dimensions are very close to either of those gearboxes, so the Richmond four-speed can be swapped into any car in which a ’71-and-later Muncie or Super T-10 was optional. The Richmond five-speed is known as the Street Five-Speed and also uses a 26-spline input and 32-spline output shaft.

It also has essentially the same dimensions externally as the pre-’71 Muncie and old T-10. The only modifications needed to install a Richmond five-speed in a pre-’71-Muncie– or T-10–equipped car would be moving the crossmember back approximately 2½ inches.

The Richmond Street Five-Speed is not an overdrive trans and can only be ordered with a 1:1 Fifth-gear ratio. Richmond’s bad-boy overdrive six-speed is a whole different beast from the rest of the six-speeds on the market. Some of the benefits of the Richmond six-speed is its light weight (108 pounds) and its ability to use a regular-style mechanical clutch and linkage from an early Chevrolet. The six-speed Richmond box is also available with either a 10- or 26-spline input shaft, and is an easy swap for early 10-spline–equipped Muncie and T-10 cars because its overall case length is equal to a Muncie or T-10. The rear mount on the Richmond six-speed will require a custom-fabricated crossmember—installed approximately 6 inches farther back—or it’s often possible to relocate the existing crossmember rearward.

The new Richmond six-speed trans comes with its own six-speed shifter assembly that will require elongation of the shifter hole in the floor. More can always be said and learned about any topic as vast as transmission swapping—a whole book could be written on this subject—but we’ll try to condense all the important information and pass it along to you as it becomes available. Feel free to write in with questions concerning your particular swap. We can’t answer your question directly, but we may address it in a future story, so stayed tuned.

Model Years Engine Sizes Transmission Model ASTRA 08-09 1.8L AF17 AURA /HYBRID 06-09 2.4L 3.5L 4T45E AURA 09 2.4L 6T40 AURA XR 07-09 3.6L 6T70 ION 04-07 2.2L 2.4L 4T45E ION 03-04 2.2L AF33-5 ION 03 2.2L VT25-E L-SERIES 00-04 2.2L 3.0L 4T40E /4T45E OUTLOOK 07-09 3.6L 6T75 RELAY 05-07 3.5L 3.9L 4T65E S-SERIES 95-03 1.9L TAAT SKY/SKY REDLINE 07-09 2.0L 2.4L 50E VUE 04-10 2.2L 2.4L 4T45E VUE 02-03 3.0L AF33-5 VUE 04-07 3.5L MDRA /MDPA VUE 07-10 3.0L 3.5L 3.6L 6T70 VUE 02-04 2.2L VT25-E VUE HYBRID 09 3.6L AHS-F. Low Transmission Fluid Level: Transmission fluid not only lubricates and helps cool the internal workings of the transmission, it also provides the pressure needed to shift gears. Thus, when the fluid level is low, the transmission may slip, shift hard, shift erratically or not shift at all. Gear engagement may be delayed. Low fluid also causes the transmission or transaxle to overheat. Solution: Add the correct type of transmission fluid until the fluid level on the dipstick shows in the 'full range'. How to properly check transmission fluid level Cost: $5 to $10 per quart of ATF.

Old, Dirty/Contaminated Fluid: Old and dirty transmission fluid can cause many of the same symptoms as having low fluid. Additionally, dirty fluid can clog the filter, which will cause even more shift problems as the fluid pressure needed to make shifts is insufficient.

With a clogged filter, the transmission oil pump must work double hard to pump fluid through the transmission and thus is more likely to fail. Solution: Fluid and filter change or fluid flush. Cost: DIY Cost: $40 to $95.

Shop Cost: $110 to $350+. Oxidized 'burnt' Transmission fluid: Burnt/oxidized transmission fluid may mean some internal transmission damage has already occurred. But, whether it is time for a rebuild is still questionable. Solution: The recommended action is to change the fluid and filter or possibly a fluid flush depending on the vehicle mileage and whether the transmission has been flushed previously. If changing the fluid and filter (or flushing the transmission) does not resolve the problem(s) you are experiencing, a rebuild may be needed.

Cost: See the above rebuild costs for rebuild cost information. Faulty Shift Solenoid - Open Electrical Circuit: A failed shift solenoid or an open/shorted electrical connection can cause delayed and erratic shift or no shifts. The condition may cause the vehicle to jerk when placing the shifter level into 'Drive' or 'Reverse' and when the transmissions shifts automatically. Solution: If the check engine light is illuminated, an OBDII scan may provide information pointing to the problem solenoid. If the check engine light is not illuminated, pinpointing a faulty transmission solenoid or locating an open electrical problem will require a series of electrical tests or a scan of the vehicle's powertrain using a special transmission scanner.

Transmission repair shops have the equipment and special scanners needed to find open circuits and other electrical problems. Cost: Do-it-yourself cost: $40 for a single solenoid to $250 or more for a solenoid pack. The transmission oil pan must be removed to access the shift solenoids. Repair shop cost range: $175 to $400+. Failed Sensor(s) and/or Switches: Today's automatic transmissions and transaxles are controlled by an electrical (computer) device called a Transmission Control Module 'TCM'. Note: Some vehicles use a Powertrain Control Module 'PCM' for both the engine and transmission operations. The TCM (or PCM) relies on input data received from various switches and sensors to control the operation of the transmission.

These sensors and switches include the throttle position sensor, crankshaft position sensor, wheel speed sensors, ATF temperature sensor, brake switch, inhibitor switch, torque converter turbine speed sensor and others. The failure of anyone of these sensors or switches can cause a number of different transmission problems, including shift problems. Solution: If the check engine light is illuminated, an OBD-II scan should identify the faulty sensor or solenoid. If check engine light is not illuminated, a transmission scan may be necessary. Cost: Do-it-yourself cost: The cost range for sensors and switches is $25 to $200+.

Repair shop cost: $125 to $350+. Valve Body Problem: The transmission valve body controls shifts by controlling fluid pressure and directing transmission fluid into the appropriate passageways to initiate and activate gear shifts. Over time, metal debris can scratch or score the aluminum passages of the valve body causing a change in pressure, which can cause numerous shift problems including hard 'jerky' shifts and delayed shifts. If any of the valve body passages become blocked by debris, the transmission may not shift into the appropriate gear, either automatically or by manually shifting.

Solution: Replace valve body. The valve body can be replaced without removing the transmission. Cost: Do-it-yourself cost: $300 - $1,000 for the cost of a new valve body. Repair shop labor for replacing the valve body is $150 to $350.

Out-of-Adjustment Shifter Linkage: The symptoms of a shifter linkage being out-of-adjustment are similar to a worn or frayed shifter cable. The difference is that with a worn shifter cable you may feel a looseness in the shifter level when moving the shifter lever. With an out-of-adjustment linkage you will probably not feel any difference in the shifter lever movement. A shifter linkage out-of-adjustment can also cause the transmission to be in a different gear than what the shifter lever shows. Solution: Adjust shifter linkage Cost: Do-it-yourself cost $0. Repair shop cost: $50 to $75. Worn, Frayed, or Broken Shifter Cable: Over time, the shifter cable can become worn, frayed or even break.

Oftentimes, a worn or frayed shifter cable will cause the transmission to be in a different gear than the shifter indicator shows. For example, the shifter lever can be in the Park position but the transmission can be in Reverse or Neutral. When this happens, the engine may not crank when turning the key to start the vehicle because the transmission is not in Park even though the shifter lever indicates it is. With a broken shifter cable, the transmission cannot be shifted into any gear. Solution: Replace shifter cable. Cost: Do-it-yourself cost: $50 to $150 for the cost of cable.

Repair shop cost: $150 to $275. Note: Many of the above conditions will cause the transmission 'Drive' indicator light to illuminate or flash. The transmission may then go into 'Limp Mode' (also called 'Safe Mode' or 'Fail Safe'. When this happens, the transmission will become locked in either 2nd or 3rd gear in order to protect the transmission from internal damage. When in Limp Mode, drive slowly and directly to a repair shop or to your destination and park the vehicle until it can be checked-out by a professional. Continuing to drive a vehicle when the transmission is in limp mode can ruin the transmission.

Recommendation: Before agreeing to a rebuild,. You may get a better price/warranty on a remanufactured transmission vs. Faulty Transmission Control Module (TCM) or Powertrain Control Module (PCM): A faulty Transmission Control Module (TCM) or Powertrain Control Module (PCM) can cause erratic shifts, hard shifts, delays between gear shifts, hard downshifts and taking longer than normal to go into Reverse or Drive. The transmission may fail to engage in any gear.

Solution: Test TCM (or PCM) and replace if found to be faulty. Cost: Diagnosing a faulty TCM or PCM may require a professional transmission scan to be performed. The cost range for this type of scan is $50 to $125.

The cost for a new TCM or PCM can range from from $75 for a used module to $500 or more new module. The best way to protect yourself (and your wallet) when dealing with any transmission problem or repair is to educate yourself. Learn as much as you can about the problem, the repair, the estimated transmission rebuild cost, the comparable remanufactured transmission cost, before taking your car to the transmission repair shop. In some instances, you may be able to make the repair yourself.

Either way, proceeding blindly can cost you both time and money. Authorize the repair or replacement only after you are comfortable. Below you will find transmission rebuild and remanufactured transmission cost information, and a downloadable PDF file you can print for your reference. The sources for these figures include transmission repair shops and car dealerships from different parts of the country as well as from vehicle owners themselves and several remanufactured transmission suppliers.

What’s a No Hassle Warranty? Our commitment to delivering excellent service doesn’t end at the closing of the sale! Should you have any questions or concerns about your Shift Select transmission, our Product Support Team is only a phone call away. So what does a No Hassle Warranty really mean? When your transmission is installed at a licensed repair facility:.

You’re covered for 3 years unlimited mileage on standard application vehicles. Your warranty is attached to your VIN and transferable with vehicle ownership. You’re covered anywhere (and everywhere) in the continental United States. You’re back on the road fast; we send you a replacement transmission as soon as your warranty claim is submitted. We pay parts and labor to the shop installing your replacement transmission. Labor Warranty: Up to $50/hour MItchell book hours for removal and re-installation.

Must be initially installed at a licensed auto repair shop. for labor warranty to be valid.Licensed auto repair shop: A repair shop whose primary business is automotive repair and provides auto repair service to the general public.

Commercial Application: Vehicles of larger than one ton, transportation for hire (taxis, shuttles, limousine services) delivery service, police and any other emergency vehicles, and/or tow trucks. What is a fair price to pay for various transmission repairs? What kinds of repairs does a transmission need? Does your transmission need rebuilt? Fair price guide for the price range of a transmission rebuild. Considering a remanufactured transmission? Here are costs and options for how to purchase.

Want an estimate for a remanufactured transmission? Fill out the form here to get an estimate via e-mail. What is a transmission torque converter clutch solenoid and how to replace one if it goes bad. What is a transmission pressure control solenoid and how to replace one if it goes bad. Guide to various automatic transmission solenoids, how they work, and DIY instructions. What fluid type do you need for your specific transmission? Use this guide to find out.

If you facing a transmission replacement, you can reduce the cost considerably by removing and re-installing the transmission yourself. Here we provide step-by-step instructions for remove and replacing a transmission. For most vehicles, the speed sensor is plugged into the transmission (or transaxle). When the speed sensor fails the speedometer stops working and shifts may become erratic. Replacing a speed sensor is easy.

Vehicle owners become aware of a transmission fluid leak either when checking the fluid level and seeing that it is low or seeing a red colored fluid on their driveway or garage floor. Nothing is more frustrating that getting into your car and the gear shifter lever being locked in Park. Here we explain how to release the shifter, the causes, how to repair and the estimated cost. Installing an auxiliary transmission oil cooler can protect your transmission from overheating and failure. Excessive heat can ruin a perfectly good transmission very quickly. Coolers are inexpensive and easy to install.

Keeping clean fresh fluid in your transmission is the number one thing you can do to protect the transmission from premature failure. These DIY transmission fluid and filter change procedures are easy to follow. Learn how to check the condition of transmission fluid, what the different conditions mean and what, if anything, you need to do to keep your transmission running smooth. Learn the correct procedure for checking transmission fluid level. Many people do it wrong, so here is the easy way. The neutral safety switch is a safety feature that prevents the engine from starting when the transmission or transaxle is in gear.

Transmission For Chevy 350 Engine

When the switch fails, the engine may not crank or it may start in gear. A transmission fluid flush can be performed without a transmission flush machine - and it's safer for high mileage vehicles. A guide to determining which transmission model you have based on the year, make, model and engine size. When a transmission fault is detected by the OBD-II system, the transmission may go into fail-safe (or 'limp' mode as it is also called) in order to protect the transmission from internal damage Most vehicle problems, including automatic transmission problems, reveal themselves in one way or another. Learning to recognize these warning signs can save you a great deal of money and vehicle down time. Diagnostic Trouble Codes P0700 through P0799 are transmission related OBD-II codes.

Any code within this range point to a transmission related fault. CV (constant-velocity) axles, (also known as half-shafts), are used in front-wheel drive vehicles to transfer the engine’s power from the transaxle to the two drive wheels. When working on or around any vehicle injuries can and do occur. Please read these Safety Precautions before starting your next automotive service/repair project.